Mr2 spyder hardtop red3/19/2024 Almost guaranteed some paint will come off with it, but it will be covered by the new part. Just carefully pull the protector strip off starting at the front (pull down and out). I started out removing the weatherstripping, then quickly realized I didn't have to. A regular screwdriver or putty knife could be useful too, but I didn't use them.įirst, remove the old part. No better place to start than with my own hardtop, so why not make it into a 'how to' as well? Along the way while doing this I discovered a few things I did not know about the weatherstripping on the hardtop, and how to ensure against leaks. I've finally found a source for the 'protectors' that does not charge an arm and a leg (with apologies to those that I've supplied these to in the past, at the cost of arms and legs). and they are not available separately from Toyota. These are little plastic end pieces that are glued on to the "side garnish protector" for the hardtop weatherstripping. (I have build several aquariums out of both glass and Plexi from 5 gals to 450, and I own 4 sailboats (ok, 3 of them are 11 ft 1 is 30 ft) and do repairs for other owners at the marina as a side job.More and more hardtops are missing one or both of the little "triangles" that complete the weatherstripping between the hardtop and the A-piller (see pic below, marked with paint). (again, this is the way most sailboat windows are installed, plexi/lexan to fiberglass hull, some form of sealant, I like Butyl, and then some kind of securing fastener, bolts are better, but I've seen screws) So yes, plastic window to plastic hard top, I would definitely recommend the bolts!!! Anything you put between the two is just sealant, not a trustworthy glue. Now, there are probably many different grades of Butyl, and the stuff I use is probably NOT suited for window installation, so please to some research on your own. You can get it in a tape form at a camper supply (I use it to seal any and all through deck fittings on Sailboats). Butyl is what the industry uses, and it's not that expensive. However, even if the rear window was glass I would still not recommend using Silicone, as it's adherence to the composite hard top is questionable. I only use Silicone to fix plastic to glass if it is not structural. More Pictures of my car with the top can be found at Group A Toyota MR2 Spyder Hardtop | Group A MotoringīTW, as an aquarium hobbiest/builder while Silicone has tenacious adhering ability to glass, it's "stick" to plastics (plexi/lexan.) is less than 50% of that to glass, and even then it's hit and miss. Overall, great fit, very light, and relatively inexpensive. The company is based in California, so if you live in NY, it will take a lot longer to arrive. One of the only complications I see is that they can only ship it to a commercial address, so be wary of that. They are made to order and take quite a while to ship. It will reek of resin on the inside of your cabin for while, just FYI. Seals are included, but the OEM ones off your soft top will fit perfectly so use those. Not for the faint of heart, drilling and measuring is required for that step. A preshaped lexan rear window is provided, you supply your own bolts and caulking to adhere it. Also, it costs LESS than OEM! The construction and finish is fantastic, and I had no fitment issues whatsoever. There is a fiberglass option as well, but I opted for the cf for the looks and weight savings. As the title suggests, I wanted to make a quick review of the GrA cf top.
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